"I was not born moving to spend my life standing still....."

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

China - Tiger Leaping Gorge - Part I

After a couple of days in Lijiang getting ready, Sarah and I headed off to start our 3 day trek through Tiger Leaping Gorge.

Now, before I start telling you about the three days, let me just fill you in on a few of the things I had been told by people who had done the trek:

1) The first part of the trek to the Naxi Guesthouse is really easy, just a really basic walk
2) The 28 Bends are hard, but probably a little bit overrated
3) Don't attempt this hike in the rain, as it can get really dangerous

Please, keep these 3 points in mind as you read this post!

We arrive at Janes Guesthouse (the beggining of the trek) at around 10.30am. The weather was looking brilliant, nice and sunny. After a quick bite to eat and hearing about the conditions of the track, we set off about an hour later.

So, like I said, the first part of the trek is meant to be quite easy?? Just a basic walk?? WELL IT WASN'T!!!!! In the wonderful early morning heat with the sun blistering down on us, we walking for around 2.5k's constantly up hill on a dirt track, with absolutely no relief from the shade what so ever. We managed to do the first part in a little under 2 hours, which was impressive considering we walked quite slow. When we arrived the first guesthouse (Naxi Guesthouse) I wasn't sure I was going to be able to do the next part of the trek as I was absolutely exhausted. However, once I had some lunch and drank my 4th 1ltr bottle of water for the day (I told you it was hot!!) we headed on to begin the hardest part of the trek, the 28 bends.

(Now, before I get to the next bit....When I was in Kunming I met a couple and there 7 year old daughter who had just done the gorge, and said it was quite easy. Even the 7 year old said it was easy, which made me think that if a stupid 7 year old girl can do it, then I shouldn't have a problem.....)

After an hour of walking uphill, we finally got to the beginning of the '28 Bends'. From the bottom the top of the mountain didn't seem that far away, however it did look pretty damn steep.

Unfortunately, calling the 28 bends steep would be a complete understatement....!!

It took us around 2.5 hours from the Naxi Guesthouse to the summit of the 28 bends, and we climbed them in the middle of the day when it was around 26 degrees. The 28 bends are realistically more like 40 bends, as you weave your way through steep corner after steep corner slowly getting towards the summit. Even the fittest people doing the hike were having to stop at least every ten meters to get there breath back.

The worst thing about the whole hike is that you have these guys on horses following you up, waiting for you to give in so you will pay them the equivilent of $10AUD so they will carry you to the top! If anything they make you more determined to carry on. But you see I had two things driving me to get to the top: The horse people and the memory of that stupid 7 year old girl telling me how easy the trek was!! I'm sorry, but there is NO WAY that 7 year old could have found this easy....!

We got to the top at around 4pm, and what a feeling that was! And what a view! You could see all the way back to where we had begun the trek right up to where we were then and there.

It took us another 2 hours to walk down the other side of the mountain, and towards our guest house for the night, the Tea Horse.

We arrived there at around 6pm, had some dinner, and I promptly fell asleep at around 8pm...!!




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