The Trans-Mongolian Part IV - Suzdal & Moscow

On arrival in Suzdal, my first impression was how small it was! And the fact that there were next to no people anywhere to be seen. Apart from the market that was set up in the church yard oppisite our Hotel, there was honestly no other people anywhere.

But I guess you have to kind of expect that in a city with no more than 11,000 people in it!

Although small, Suzdal was yet another side to Russia I wasn't expecting to see. Suzdal is a bit of a "weekend" get away for most of the people who live in Moscow, as it's only 5 hours away. So it was quite the laid back town to walk around. No one was in a rush, there was hardly any traffic (due to the fact there were hardly any people!), so you could feel free to just wander around at your own pace.

One thing Suzdal doesn't lack in are churches. They are everywhere! Big ones, small ones, you name it - Suzdal's got it. It was here in Suzdal that I had my first chance to see a Russian Orthodox Church. You know the ones I am talking about, really REALLY big with the giant colorful domes on the top. It was amazing to finally see one in reality after seeing so many in books while researching the trip.

The insides of the church are a fantastic sight to see, unfortunately though I have no pictures! However, if you can imagine your house with every single spare piece of space painted in the most vivid colorful religious paintings, then maybe you get a small idea of what I mean. There is no spot uncovered; the floors, walls and ceilings are all painted depicting different scenes from the bible. Now, although I am not an overly religious person, it really was quite moving to see. While inside one of the churches, we were treated to a group of Russian Tenors singing a hymn, which sounded so wonderful, especially in the painted surroundings of the Church.

We spend the following day on a walking tour of the town, (which as you can imagine didn't take very long given how small Suzdal is!) which included a trip to a folk festival that was on. There was traditional russian singing, dancing and plenty of people in traditional costumes. Quite the sight to see.

We then headed to Moscow the following morning on a 5 hour bus, which me Ben and Sophie were lucky enough to sit up the back next to two severely drunk and smelly russians. It's moments like these that really paint Russia as a whole for me!!

Arriving in Moscow from Suzdal gave the system quite a shock, due to the sheer size of the city, the amount of people and the amount of cars wizzing by at 100 miles an hour. Moscow is the first European City (if you can call it that) that I had encountered so far, so as busy as asia was in its major cities, Asia has NOTHING on Moscow.

We checked into apartment which was right smack bang in the center of Moscow, and went on a walk down to the Red Square. As I said previously, the churches in Suzdal were pretty amazing to see. But in my opinion, you HAVE NOT seen a church until you have seen St Basils Cathedral in the Red Square. The best way to describe this church (aside from flipping HUGE), is as a giant ice cream. The outside is so colorful, and it stands out so much in comparison to all the communists era buildings surrounding it. The church is really the image that I think most people have of Moscow, if not the whole of Russia.

The following day we headed out on our tour of the Kremlin, which has been and still is the center point of Moscow and Russian politics. We walked past where the president resides and spent around 2 hours touring the art galleries inside.

One of the funnier things that happened on this paticular day: In order to get into the Kremlin, you must check in all of your bags (ie Handbags, Backpacks etc etc) into a locker room about a 10 minute walk from the entrance. Us being the organised tour group, had obviously done this. However, a gentleman of about 40 in the group in front us obviously thought he could slip past the Russian guards with his back pack still on......under his jacket (It wasn't one of those small packs either, he kinda looked like the hunch back of Notredam...!). After walking through the metal detector, the alarm bells going off and him insisting for at least 5 minutes that he had nothing to hide, the Russian guards eventually looked behind and saw his bag. He was promptly escorted out, and down to the lockers. What an idiot!

We then headed into one of Moscow's #1 truly bizarre sight, The Mausoleum of Lenin. Here you can bask at Lenin in all his communist glory, deader than dead, yet fully embalmed for all the world to admire. As freaky as it is to see a dead guy in a glass case, that was nothing in comparison to the 20 odd russian guards who stand in threes in all corners and walls of the Mausoleum, watching your every move. As it's quite dark in there (so as not to disturb Lenin in his sleep I presume), you actually don't see these guards until you are about 2 meters in front of them. They really do give you quite a fright!

No trip to Moscow is complete with out a tour of the underground metro system. The various metro stops dotting the center of Moscow are more like living Museums than Metro stops. Full of sculptures, chandeliers and various paintings and mosaics through out, these stations really were a highlight of any visit to Moscow.

A trip to Moscow is also incomplete if you don't make an effort to check out the legendary under ground Moscow Night Club scene. Now, by underground, I mean UNDERGROUND. Ben and I spent around an hour looking for a club one night that was supposed to be a ten minute walk from our apartment. After finding some young guys in the street who spoke English and asking for their assistance, they offered to take us to the club. After walking for about 5 minutes down a back street we are told by our new friends "there it is"....and pointed at a door. With no building behind it. They walked up to the door, knocked, the door was opened and we were greeted by 5 flights of stairs going down to a club full of people! It was absolutely bizarre! After spending around half an hour there, our Russian friends offered to take us to another club...and another...and another, until me and Ben found ourselves walking back to the Apartment at 6am the following morning! Each club was more hidden than the next..the complete opposite of anything I had ever seen before.

The next day we jumped on our last night train, heading for our last stop, St Petersburg.